Saturday, December 27, 2008

Fall with no Foliage

In southern California, season changes most often go undetected due to the year-round warm weather. However, when you're an avid waterman with salt water running through your veins, small changes speak volumes. A few summer hallmarks such as warm and crowded waters, black ball flags raised at 10am, South swells with heavy drifts and sunburns eventually give way just after the last unofficial day of summer; Labor Day.

Unofficially, Fall is ushered in on September 2 by the commencement of school, vacations have ended and best of all, beaches are much less crowded during the week. This is especially grand when late south swells along with some early west swells come rolling in and those 'personal' days you saved all summer come in pretty handy right about now because chances are some good and uncrowded surf is there for the taking. Carpe Diem !!

It's interesting to me that as I reflect back some 25-years ago, I realize that indeed some things really never change. As far back as I can recall I've always cherished September through December as the BEST time of the year for surfing.

As for this late December 2008 entry, the holidays are nearly over and a new year is rapidly approaching. These are perilous times indeed and much change is sure to come. The air & water are getting colder and I notice that with each passing year it seems to be just a little bit harder on these aging bones of mine but as long as good health prevails, I will don the suit and paddle out with the intent of riding fun waves and seeking solace in our Mother Ocean.

WTG