This time I didn't think I was going to make it. I thought my luck had finally run out. By the time the second wave crashed over me I was still swirling underwater from the first wave that got me and by now I was under for what seemed to be an eternity. Gasping for air and swallowing water, I was completely disoriented from the spin cycle of the white wash. I continued to swim to what I thought was the surface but in reality I was swimming down toward the bottom which was confirmed when my hands scraped the jagged rocks. I thought, show's over, I'm not going to make it up.
As a third thunderous wave crashed over me, a sense of ease started to cover me like a warm blanket. I thought this is the end of the road; my time on earth is up when suddenly I surfaced. I was choking for air and my first thought was I'm going to get hit by another wave and I have no air left in my lungs to possibly survive. I quickly turned towards the line-up to see how many towering waves would finish me off but to my amazement all was calm; the water was remarkably still and the horizon was indistinguishable as the deep blue of the ocean and the azure heavens meshed beautifully. Gordon was the first to paddle over and help me back onto the boat. My leash broke so my board washed up on the rocks, broken in half by the ocean's fury. Once in the boat, I started to feel sick to my stomach which was caused by the salt water I had ingested and the realization that perhaps I felt the warm breath of death sighing over me. This was too much for me to swallow so understandably I heaved violently over the side of the boat. After my moment with ‘Ralph', a few of my hardy, rhino-chasing mates were high-fiving me, reminding me that we're all that close from becoming fish food when we dare to do what few would ever consider. They offered me a cold beer to settle my stomach so while I was nursing it down, I remembered a quote from Teddy Roosevelt which initially inspired me into this grand arena of chasing big waves; " Far better is it to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure ... than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much, because they live in a gray twilight that knows not victory nor defeat"
Although this experience occurred some 22-years ago, the feeling from that experience is still fresh in my mind. I can vividly recall the moment of panic I felt followed by the strange yet sudden ease when I thought I was all done. My days of chasing big surf are behind me now and I've grown into a life of servitude to my career and my family. I still enjoy surfing however, something has changed or rather I have changed. I've seemed to have matured over the years because in my more youthful days, I would ditch work and willfully forego all other obligations in life just to catch a new swell and log in more time in the water, regardless of consequences. Today, I can't keep track of how many good swells I've missed because of duty & obligation but I don't harbor any sour grapes about it. In retrospect, I consider myself very fortunate and thankful that I can still paddle out on a good day and handle it quite well. I’ve ridden a lot of great swells in my day and though I’m certain there will be plenty of upcoming swells I’ll miss, I’m confident that my yearning for another paddle-out will not fade into the distance.
I have nothing but fond and indelible memories that are directly linked to surfing; the places I’ve been, friendships made and some colorful characters I’ve surfed with over the years, all of which makes surfing to me more than just riding waves. It’s an experience that is perpetually imbued with much excitement and adventure. Often times surfing for me is a lot like the excitement a child feels waking up on Christmas morning and anticipating all the gifts to unwrap. However, these days I tend to be over-burdened like most folks who are with a laden schedule. This unfortunately limits my time in the water. It's indeed a true blessing to know that when I'm afforded with some free time I can escape down to the beach and commune with our Mother Ocean and frolic in her watery playground. Surfing provides a continual gratification far beyond any I have ever since known. I can can only hope to remain in good health in the years to come to answer the call of the sea for another paddle-out, abiding in my yearning to be in the ocean. I highly doubt that my prime reason for surfing will ever fade or diminish any time soon because simply put ……
SURFING IS DAMN FUN !
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